Beaver Instructions

First cut out the formers, and the two deck pieces. Remember to score K2 at the place it will be bent - you can cut it through if you want, but it's easier to handle if it's still attached. Glue the 'vertical grain' edges to F2 and F3.

 Glue formers 1-bottom, 2 and 3 to the Keel unit K2, add the K1-botom and fit the subdeck over these parts. Assemble and glue the unit F1-top/K1-top, and then glue it in position to the bow. Add F4 to the rear of the sub-deck.

The stern doubler is now glued underneath the sub-deck stern, and the end of K2 is beveled and glued to the subdeck, just in front of the F4 lug.

To keep your deck absolutely flat, it's a good idea to glue a little piece of hard 1/8" square strip into the little notch in K1, and across F2 where the edge of the deck will go.

The top deck should now just slide down with the slots fitting each of the projections from the formers. Glue it in position, taking care to press the deck firmly down onto the K1 lug on the foredeck. It should be pinned into position here to keep the deck curved upwards.

Check the hull for squareness, and then we can start skinning. Attach the side skins first at the bow. A little strip of 1/16" on the front of K1 will make a little rebate to hold it more firmly. When it is dry, just bend the skin back, gluing and pinning as you go. The skin should reach to F4.

The lower skin is treated just the same way - a lttle rebate at the front, glue down, then bend back.  

Now is a good time to consider the motor position. Motors up to 1" in diameter can fit in the little space under the prop-shaft - any bigger and they have to go on top. Drill holes for the prop-shaft accordingly, and mount the prop-shaft and motor, checking for pulley squareness and clearances. If you have made up a 1.5" prop as indicated in the 'fittings' section, this will also need careful clearance checking.

The gunwales can be fitted now - just glue at the edge between F2 and F3, and then bend and glue to front and back once the glue has dried. Remember to cut the scuttles out before gluing!

The rudder and rudder servo can be installed now - see the fittings section for an example of how to make them up. Test the motor and servo - then close up the stern with the lower stern skins and the stern side skins.Cut across the grain, they will be easy to bend. Don't worry too much if you snap then, though - they can easily be glued back and sanded smooth. You will probably need to trim the side skins and the gunwales so that they end half-way across F4.

Then the stern gunwale is cut, bent on and glued. You will find, if cut across the grain and steamed, that this part just bends itself in...

Finally, the two 'coffer-dam' sides from the superstructure sheet are glued onto either side of the hatch, and the hull is complete.


Either superstructure may be assembled - a simple business of just cutting out the parts and assembling them as per the web-site. Note that the Steam-Tug superstructure can have vertical window-frames made out of 1/8" scrap, and little window-sills made out of 1/16" scrap as shown on the website. If these are made out of pre-stained and varnished strip the wheelhouse will look quite realistic.

The Modern Tug superstructure is made out of 4 pieces of clear plastic packaging with 1/16" square scrap strip. Again, paint the strip first, then glue carefully to the plastic using a contact adhesive as on the web site. The four 'glass' sides are then glued into their base, and joined together with square strips of 1/16" at their corners.


paint and decorate as required. The fittings section shows two suitable masts, as well as ladders, railings and other possible additions.

If you feel the need for real towing with a Beaver, however, you won't want to connect a tow hook to the superstructure! My recommendation is to make up an H-bitt out of 1/4" dowel, and set it into the deck just aft of the superstructure. Here it can go through the deck and into the sub-deck below, giving a firm hard-point.   


Happy towing!

DG